If you’re looking for a non-touristy island in the Philippines where commercial travel culture hasn’t yet rewritten daily life, Dumaran Island in the province of Palawan might be exactly for you. Think quiet roads, empty beaches, curious smiles, and the kind of stillness that’s getting harder to find around the globe.

Dumaran isn’t flashy. There are no big resorts (in fact, there are barely any resorts at all), no curated experiences, and definitely no nightlife. What it does offer is space, authenticity, and a rare chance to see an island before it becomes a destination.
This is slow travel at its best.

Where Is Dumaran Island?

Dumaran Island sits north-east of mainland Palawan, opposite Taytay Bay. Despite being so close to popular Palawan routes, it remains largely overlooked by travellers rushing between El Nido, Port Barton and Coron.
That’s exactly why it still feels untouched.

How to Get to Dumaran Island?

Getting to Dumaran takes effort. However, one can see this as the filter that keeps mass tourism away. At least for now.

There are two main ferry connections between Palawan and Dumaran Island:

  • Roxas Feeder Port – Araceli (East of Dumaran island)
  • Santa Teresita – Port of Dumaran (West of Dumaran island)

The best connection in terms of convenience, time and cost is definitely the ferry from Roxas Feeder Port.
I, however, experienced the Santa Teresita route, coming from El Nido – it is doable but involves a lot of waiting time and the whole journey is just very long, thus, not recommended (it does feel authentic and adventurous though, but extremely tiring). I will cover both route details and costs below.

How to get to Dumaran Island from Puerto Princesa (PPC)

If you are heading to Dumaran Island from Puerto Princesa the following options are available:

  • Cherry Bus or private van from PPC to Santa Teresita (4-5 hrs) + ferry to Dumaran Port (45 mins) + tricycle or van (shared / private) to your accommodation in Araceli (1-1.5 hrs)
  • Bus or private van from San Jose Terminal in PPC to Roxas Feeder Port (2.5-3 hrs) + ferry (or to be more precise a large bangka) to Araceli (5 hrs; leaving daily at 09:00) + tricycle to your accommodation (10-15 mins).
  • It is recommended to get to Roxas from wherever you are one day in advance of your travel to Dumaran (unless you travel from Port Barton or nearby areas), stay in Roxas overnight (or have an extended stay nearby. e.g. at Mecaja Dive Resort – that’s where we stayed), and catch a ferry from Roxas to Araceli early in the morning.

If you wonder how the travel with the bangka goes – it is absolutely chill and stress-free. You will be surrounded by the locals communing and transporting various goods. There is even a warm lunch served for free – it was very simple (we got some rice and a piece of fish) but it did the job. As it rather came as a surprise than a promise – there was certainly nothing to complain about.😄 I found it to be most chill on the upper deck where you can lie down and enjoy the view, read a book or take a nap. Bring extra water and snacks to keep your stomach happy.

How to get to Dumaran Island from Port Barton

The closest and most convenient option to get to Dumaran Island is from Port Barton. If you leave early enough from Port Barton you can spare yourself an overnighter in Roxas, where you will catch the morning boat to Dumaran. So here is how to get there:

  • Take a tricycle or a van from Port Barton to Roxas Feeder Port.
  • It is advisable to get to Roxas early in the morning (at least 45 mins prior to the boat departure at 09:00). Duration of the trip is about 45-60 mins. Cost for a tricycle is approx. 600-800 PHP (unfortunately, I don’t have indications for a private van, but my guess it would costs no less than 1200-1500 PHP). Check their local ‘Uber’ app called TokTok to get better rates.
  • If you are planning to stay in Roxas for a night, you can also get from Port Barton to Roxas by bus which leaves from Port Barton around 08:00 (check with the locals for the most current information).
  • Take a ferry (bangka) to Araceli (5hrs; leaving daily at 09:00) + a tricycle to your accommodation in Araceli (10-15 mins).

How to get to Dumaran Island from El Nido

This route is definitely the most complicated one. It took me aaaages to figure out whether it was possible at all + do it on a budget. So here is how it goes:

  • Cherry Bus heading from El Nido to Puerto Princesa – get off at the Abongan Junction (2h, 135 PHP).
  • You can obviously also book a private van from El Nido, but it will cost a lot, as the road is tricky and long, and the driver will have to return back without any passengers (so expect your rate to be basically double).
  • Local bus from Abongan Junction Bus Stop to Santa Teresita (3-4 hrs, 100 PHP).
  • A ferry from Santa Teresita to Dumaran Port (45mins, 150 PHP).
  • Tricycle or van to your accommodation in Araceli (1h, 1200-2500 PHP).
My experience of getting to the island from El Nido

This was truly a DIY route as we didn’t know for sure what time the bus would pass at the Abongan Junction and if it would pick us up. We took the earliest possible bus from El Nido at 07:00, and this was the smoothest bit of the journey. Once we got off at the Junction, we had about 2-3h waiting time for the bus, with no clear understanding when it would arrive as time in the Philippines is flexible. In hindsight, we could have minimised the waiting time if we took a later bus from El Nido and would have still made the connection, but we decided to play it safe.

There is no marked bus stop and we simply noticed locals gathering along the road and joined them waiting, once we realised they are also waiting for a bus to Araceli. At this point we got a bit more reassured that it all might work out after all! The bus eventually arrived and it was PACKED.

I’ve rarely seen a bus this full and we looked at it puzzled as it was unclear how we would manage to get on it with our huge backpacks and the rest of the people planning to board too. It did get sorted out and the bus became even fuller – for about 30 mins we were standing in the most uncomfortable positions enjoying the heat, dust in our faces, every bump that we’ve hit on the road and the lack of view. 😀

Over time, with passengers getting off the bus more than getting on it, we got more space around us and could even sit down for the bigger part of the trip. But get ready that it will not be a VIP experience, however, it is definitely the most local experience one can get.

According to Google, driving by car for the stretch of the road between the junction and Santa Teresita should take about 1.5 hrs. HOWEVER, you can easily double that. In the end, count somewhere between 3-4 hours on a bus, depending on the amount of stops you make. Keep in mind that the bus also acts as a local post service, delivering envelopes and parcels, sometimes every 10-15 meter (no joke!) as there is no centralised pick-up point for every village and the delivery is basically made to door.

Once we finally arrived in Santa Teresita (Dumaran), we’ve just missed our boat connection, which gave us enough time to grab lunch in the town. There is not much around, but you find a few local vendors and local eateries serving food at truly local prices. We left our luggage with the coastguard office – they were very friendly and agreed to look after our stuff while we headed off to look for our lunch meal.

The boat ride to Dumaran Port is uncomplicated and fast. The boat is quite small but it was half-empty when we travelled. In any case, it is advisable to arrive there in advance to secure your spot on the boat. You pay for your ticket (150 PHP) right before you board.

Finally, once you arrive at Dumaran Port, you will need to hitch a ride to Araceli. The first drivers to approach you will most likely want too much. They are likely to go down with the price a bit, but not too much. Expect to pay somewhere between 1200 to 1500 PHP for a tricycle ride.

It takes about 1h to get from Dumaran Port to Araceli. Beware that some chunks of the road are quite bumpy. The bigger part of the road, however, is in a pretty decent state. The scenery is truly amazing! So ultimately it was also a good way to do a speedy tour across the island. 🙂

Here are the indications of the transport prices (in PHP per person / trip for private vans and tricycle) for the mentioned connections to Dumaran island, based on my trip in February 2025 (plus some more recent info if found):

250

x

x

500

x

250-500

2500-3000

x

x

5000-6000

x

2500

x

500

x

x

150

x

x

x

50-100

x

50-100

1200-1500

Useful Contacts & Timetable Info

Cherry Bus from PPC to Dumaran (St. Teresita):
Timetable: 14:00, return at 04:00 (as of September 2025)
Contact: Facebook Page (they usually post updated timetables, but not 100% reliable), 09216432542

Van PPC to St. Teresita:
Driver: Mr. Ariel Manlavi
Mobile: 09388322007 / 09502090497
Duration: 4-5 hours
Shared Van: 500 PHP / person
Private Van: 5000-6000 PHP / trip (up to 12 passengers)

Ferry from St. Teresita to Dumaran:
Timetable: 07:15, 08:30, 10:00, 11:00, 13:15. 15:30, 16:00, 17:15
Duration: 45 mins
Cost: 150 PHP

Ferry from Roxas Feeder Port to Dumaran:
Schedule: 9:00 AM, daily except Mondays
Duration: 5 hours
Cost: 450 PHP

Dumaran Poblacion Port to Araceli:
Drivers Schedule (Reservation Required):
•Monday: Mr. Daculap/Puloy, Phone: 09456937745
•Tuesday: Mr. Alein, Phone: 09069566917
•Wednesday: Mr. Brylle/Bridget, Phones: 09051574732 / 09395713841
•Thursday: Mr. Daculap/Puloy, Phone: 09456937745
•Friday: Mr. Louie, Phones: 09633093419 / 09550718744
•Saturday: Mr. Max/Brylle, Phone: 09051574732
•Sunday: Mr. Alein, Phone: 09069566917

Duration: 1h
Shared Van: 250 PHP per person, departure 09:00 – 11:00
Private Van: 2500 PHP per trip (up to 10 passengers)

Tricycle Rental (Araceli):
Driver: Nong Bads
Phone: 0907 578 4365 / 0905 641 2167
Rate: 50–150 PHP per trip (in Araceli area)

Motorbike Rental:
Owner: Ms. Maricel
Phone: 09077570004
Rate: 300–400 PHP/day

Where to Stay On the Island?

There are only a few guest houses on Dumaran island – with the majority of them (or possibly even all) located in Araceli (this is why arrival with the boat from Roxas is highly recommended).

I came across some information that one could find a stay in Dumaran Poblacion too, but I could not verify it and based on what I’ve seen upon arrival on Dumaran, there is not much happening in the main town, so I wouldn’t go there for the buzz.

Araceli is considered to be a quieter side of the island, but there you get direct access to wonderful beaches and still can manage to get help from the locals with your exploring plans, as they are more likely to speak at least some English in the area with lodging for tourists.

Here is an overview of the guest houses you will find in Araceli (I left out those with consistently bad reviews and those that appear to be non-operational):

Villa Darroca
Price per night: from 20 EUR / 23 USD / 1350 PHP (or cheaper for a camping option, tent can be provided)

+63 977 841 1466 (Larry)
larrydarroca@yahoo.com

This is the resort where we stayed at. The owner, Larry, was at the property during our visit and he was most friendly and welcoming, just like the rest of his staff.

The rooms are new and cozy, with a little terrace where you can chill in a hammock.
The resort is located right at the beach front, serving you with great views throughout the day.

Here you have an option to use the resort’s kitchen if you choose to cook your own meals. Alternatively, the meals can be cooked for you – we had most of our our meals at the resort as they were tasty and fairly priced.

Highly recommend you to stay at Villa Darroca! It is a safe bet for a great time on Dumaran.

Note: at the time of our stay we had a promotional price which was 50% – check booking platforms for any running promotions or contact Larry directly to see if you can get a discount for a longer stay, e.g.

JCAH BEACH HOUSE
Price per night: from 22 EUR / 26 USD / 1500 PHP

We went here one time for breakfast and once for dinner. Restaurant is all right – not the cosiest though, but the food was decent. Cannot say anything about the rooms, but they seem to have good reviews.

Gasa Sea Park – Traveller’s Inn
Price per night: from 12 EUR / 14 USD / 825 PHP
Great budget option for a stay on Dumaran island. The resort, however, does not have a beach access. Good restaurant and sea views though!

JBryan Traveler’s Inn
Contact for prices and availability: +639295978977

Mini Nami Guesthouse (to be opened)
+639171624131 (Whatsapp available)
mininamiguesthouse@gmail.com

When is the Best Time to Visit Dumaran Island?

Generally, the best time to visit is during dry season, which lasts from November to May. However, choosing when exactly to do depends on your priorities in terms of the activities and weather conditions.

November-February: best for kite surfing, exploring the island & having a relaxing time at the beach with no heat as the temperatures are cooler.

March-April: ideal for snorkeling and island hopping activities, swimming and chilling at the beach. This is a peak summer time which can also mean more local tourists visiting and high temperatures, making exploration of the island a bit more difficult.

I visited Dumaran in February and the conditions were great, just not for snorkeling and island hopping, which I was a bit upset about (although snorkeling was off the table for me anyways after I got stung by a box jellyfish in El Nido). My husband Roger profited from the perfect kite surfing conditions. Strong wind made the sea choppy and as the air is cooler swimming and snorkeling activities are just not so enjoyable (although you certainly can still do it). However, we still had plenty of things to do on the island and did not get bored. 🙂

Top Things to Do on Dumaran Island

So once you reach the island, you will probably wander what are the top things to do on Dumaran island if tourism is not so developed here. Having spent a few days here, I’ve found a few things to try not to get bored on the island:

1. Rent a scooter and drive around to explore the island

Dumaran is perfect for exploring on your own. Quiet roads, rice fields, small villages, mangroves, palm trees and coastal views with barely any traffic. People are friendly and keen to connect even if they don’t speak English well.

2. Explore Dumaran’s untouched beaches

Expect raw, undeveloped beaches with little to no people around. Bring a towel to sit on, water and snacks and enjoy having stretches of sand to yourself. Tinintinan and Rawis White Beach were my favourite for chilling / swimming, where you get a long stretch of white sandy beach. The beach close to the DaIayawon village also looked lovely, although due to the windy conditions at the time we did go swimming there, but I imagine it could be nice, possibly even snorkel from shore. f you are open to drive for long distances with a scooter – you can try to reach beaches on the south/south-west of the island (have a look at Magsaysay Beach.

3. Visit Marakit Island

The island is reachable by boat or even by foot at low tide. If you choose to walk over the sandbar to the island, make sure you have the timing right and can come back before the water rises (each way it takes about 20 minutes). Unfortunately, we never managed to get our timing right and had to skip the idea of walking over to the island 🙂

The island is favoured by the locals as a picnic spot on a white sandy beach. You can also do a short hike of about 10 minutes to reach the viewpoint on a hill. The crystal clear waters also offer a perfect snorkeling opportunity.

4. Book an Island Hopping Tour

If your goal is island hopping and snorkeling – make sure you visit Dumaran during the dry season and when the sea state is calm. Your best bet would be during the months of March and April. The local providers offer island hopping tours, allowing you to visit nearby island and snorkel in the waters with healthy corals and plenty of fish. Depending on the conditions the boats can get to the closer islands of Cotad, Manulali and Langoy or take you out to the more remote islands. Ask for the information at your resort – they are most likely to help you get to the right contact and information fast.

5. Go Kiteboarding

During the windy season from November to February, there is an option to go kiteboarding or windsurfing in Araceli. Roger gave it a go with a beginner’s course and it was a great experience! The kiting club was located right next to our accommodation at Villa Darroca, which was extremely convenient. Contact them directly for the details and availability info.

6. Visit local viewpoints

Simple hilltop viewpoints give wide-open views of the sea and surrounding islands. In Araceli you can hike up or drive with the scooter to the Municipal Hall of Araceli for stunning sunset views.

7. Attend a local rooster fight (sabong)

If one is happening during your stay, it’s a raw glimpse into local culture – not staged, not touristy, and definitely eye-opening. Ask the locals when and where the fights take place. It normally happens pretty much daily around the island but the location and time varies, depending on the day of the week.

  • Warning:
  • Prepare yourself for a cruel sight as blood will be spilt and the roosters that lose usually die from the razor cuts they get from their opponents. This experience really is not for everyone.

Is Dumaran Island Worth Visiting?

‘Yes’ if:

  • You prefer authentic experiences over tourists hotspots and bucketlists.
  • You don’t need nightlife or a choice of restaurants and cafes.
  • You value quiet over convenience.
  • You are ok with long transfers.
  • You’re curious about local life.
  • You want to experience a non-touristy island in the Philippines.

Dumaran Island is not for you if:

  • You are short on time.
  • You prefer made-for-you tours and beach clubs.
  • Infrastructure and comfort is important to you.

Final Thoughts

Dumaran isn’t a place you stumble upon by accident (well, not unless you found it on Google Maps like I did :)) and that’s exactly why it still feels untouched.

Getting here takes time, patience, and a bit of logistical effort, but what you gain in return is a version of the Philippines that’s becoming increasingly rare: quiet beaches, daily life unfolding without an audience, and a sense that tourism only gently touched this island. If you’re looking for nightlife, curated experiences, or easy comforts, Dumaran will likely frustrate you. But if slow travel, local encounters and real connections, empty coastlines, and genuine off-the-beaten-path destinations are what you value, then Dumaran is absolutely worth the journey. Not because it tries to impress you, but because it doesn’t try at all.

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